Furniture Upcycling course - Supply List

Supply List 

This is best case scenario of what you need for the workshop and includes links to what I would provide for you on a workshop myself.

Please don't worry if you can't get everything as I can help you with workarounds.  There are ways and means to solve pretty much most problems... as long as you have paint and brushes! ;)

Just drop me a message if you want to ask any questions or check if what you have already will do the job! studio@doneupnorth.com

Essential Supplies 

Week 1 

• A piece of vintage furniture!  (Post your options in the group once it's live)
• A camera or smart phone 
• Tools for stripping down your piece - removing handles, catches and hinges etc)
  
  I recommend as a minimum a flat head screwdriver (unless your piece has cross head screws), a small pair of pliers, a screw puller and a thin bladed scraping tool as mentioned in my Top Ten Useful Tools blog post.
  
  You WON'T need them all don't worry and we can have a chat about this once the Course starts if you're unsure what you will need for your particular project.

Week 2 

• A biodegradable, non toxic cleaner such Fusion TSP or Grime Go 
  You can use Sugar Soap / other degreaser if you wish but more care is needed
• Dish Scrubby (I use washable silver scourers from Wilko)
• Clean, dry rags or paper towels (I use washable microfibre cloths like these)
• Good quality Sand paper – 180, 120 and 60 
• Cork Sanding Block  (Mine is from Wilko) 
• Dust mask if you are not in a well ventilated area
• Dust pan & brush
• Tack cloth (a very, very rung out damp cloth will suffice at a pinch)

Optional - depending on your piece: 

• Wood filler & putty knife/card if areas need filling. (Ronseal 2 part Wood Filler is my choice). It comes in Dark, Natural and Light. 
• Wood Glue & mini clamps if repairs are required. (Gorilla Wood Glue is my choice) 
• Stain blocking Primer such as Zinsser B.I.N if working on woods that will bleed or have knots  (Think dark stained Oak you want to paint light, Red coloured woods, Oily woods like Pine and Teak you want to paint light) 
• Paint and Varnish Remover if stripping your piece back to the bare wood. 
  I use Home Strip as it's Ph Neutral and perfectly safe to use indoors and is non toxic. If stripping also get a scraping tool. I like this 5-in-1 tool one from Wilko as it's really useful in general!
  
  

Week 3

• If Staining you will need a Water based Stain such as General Finishes Wood Stain and Foam Brushes to apply.
• Self-sealing Paint such as 'Satinwood', 'Eggshell' or other Mineral type furniture paints with an 'in-built top coat'
  I use Fusion Mineral Paint and General Finishes Milk Paint 
• Mini Micro Fibre roller and mini paint tray if you are doing a big flat surface
• 'Laying off' Brush if you are doing a big flat surface (I use this one by Hamilton)
• Flat Synthetic Paint brushes in various sizes – 1” for detail, 2” / 3” for larger areas
  (I use these and these)
• Aluminium Foil (or you might prefer cling wrap)
• A set of synthetic sanding pads like these  (as a minimum get Fine / Super Fine)

Week 4 & 5

• Masking Tape for delicate surfaces (Frogtape is my first choice but this stuff is pretty good!
• Craft scalpel with a straight edge pointed blade (I use this style)
• Long ruler (I prefer clear, some like to cut against metal - so this one which is clear with a metal edge is perfect!)

Optional:  

• Mini Masking tapes - come in different widths. I recommend a brand called Tamiya (just buy the refills)
• Wallpaper / stencil / fabric of your choice for a design
• More links to be added! 

Week 6

• Top coat, wax, oil - we will go through this in detail so you could choose to buy a product after you have completed the final module and decided the protection and look you want from what we cover :)  I will demo the options!
• Foam Brush / applicator (more detail on this to come too)

Optional: 

• New fittings such as handles, hinges for your piece

*Please note: a few of these other links are affiliate links